Tiffanie Darke, author of What to Wear and Why, has spent most of her career in fashion as an editor, journalist, creative director, brand strategist, campaigner, and for the last decade, an advocate for sustainable fashion. In her book, Darke offers an accessible guide to understanding fashion’s impact on the earth and economy, creating your own sustainable wardrobe, as well as auditing the one you have.
Could you share your journey into fashion and how it led to you becoming an advocate for sustainability?
I was the editor of Sunday Times Style magazine for 12 years during the noughties, during which time I was basically advocating for the acquisition of as much stuff as was humanly possible. These was the years of the democratisation of fashion, where you could buy fashion on the high street and basically fill your boots. In all of that, I never really questioned where any of these clothes came from. I then circuitously ended up at Harrods, where I was editor-in-chief. And that was absolutely a temple to mammon, and utter excess. It was quite fabulous for a while, and then the pandemic hit, and none of it really made sense anymore. I found myself in the unenviable role of taking WhatsApp pictures of Louis Vuitton handbags for ultra-high net worths to ping to them while they lazed around on their private yachts during covid, and then coming home and banging saucepans for carers on the doorsteps with my kids. That was really my moment where I realised I had to change everything and find out what the hell was going on in the world. So I took a course in sustainability, the Cambridge Institute of Sustainability Leadership, which changed my view on everything. I realised I had to do something, and I thought, well, the place where I know how to operate is fashion. So let me try and marry sustainability with fashion.
Your Rule of 5 campaign has gained a lot of traction. What inspired the Rule of Five campaign?
It was inspired by a report that came out from the Berlin climate think tank, The Hot or Cool Institute. They crunched all of the numbers and worked out that if fashion was going to hit the 1.5C 2030 warming target (which by the way, all fashion brands say they are going to hit), then there was nothing that they were doing that was going to get them there, whether it was circularity, supply chains, emissions, due to the chronic over-production in the industry, and unless we address the over-production and also the over-consumption, we would never hit that magical 2023 1.5C. They worked out the if we were going to hit it, everybody in the UK, US, and most parts of Europe, would need to limit themselves to just five purchases a year. This is what inspired me to start the 'Rule of 5'.
Note: The 2030 global warming goal: "To keep global warming to no more than 1.5°C – as called for in the Paris Agreement – emissions need to be reduced by 43 per cent by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050".
It impacted my relationship with fashion because I was used to buying clothes whenever I wanted them rather than whenever I needed them. What I realised was that we're actually the victims of very powerful marketing, and it’s very hard to turn it off that marketing. We’ve conditioned ourselves to see shopping as a solution for celebration, cheering up, distraction, or entertainment. We’ve basically been in a consumerist culture for a hundred years, and marketing algorithms have become smart at targeting us with reflective ideas of resorting to shopping whenever there’s an emotional need. I had to find my “shopping” from other sources other than buying new. So, I learned to alter, mend, upcycle items I already owned, rent, swap, and borrow from friends. I found various ways of bringing newness into my life without actually buying anything new. This really changed my relationship with fashion because I realised fashion was already in my wardrobe; I just needed to reinvent it slightly. I also got to explore new circular businesses that were beginning to pop up, which can help us with a lot of this stuff.
In your book, you provide a guide to building a sustainable wardrobe. What are the key steps for someone looking to transition toward a more eco-friendly wardrobe?
Buying less is the first thing. Start with an audit. Look at what’s actually in your wardrobe and what you wear. It’s probably only 20-30 percent of your wardrobe that you actually wear, and within that, there are probably only 10 items that you wear on repeat. Figure out what those items are and the foundational elements of what a wardrobe should be, and then take it from there. Rent, borrow, alter, swap, mend—anything but buy new.
You've spoken about the need for fewer but better-quality pieces. What do you consider essential characteristics of a long-lasting sustainable garment?
A sustainable garment needs to be made of natural materials because synthetic materials will not biodegrade. I can't bring myself to buy recycled polyester. I know that it's using polyester that's already in the world but it's just horrible stuff. We shouldn't be using it and or encouraging the use of it. I want cotton, linen, silk, and wool next to my skin. Wool has been my biggest friend this year, because I've learned how to use it in the summer. It’s very breathable, suitable for undergarments, and versatile for different seasons. A quality piece needs to be well-made with strong stitching, an evergreen design, and it should hold value for passing it on when I’m done with it.
Fast fashion has trained many consumers to chase trends. How can we shift our mindset towards valuing timeless style over fleeting trends?
Trends don't really exist anymore. The speed of information means we cycle through trends faster than we can consume them. You can see eight or nine trends on TikTok in a single day. Most fashion brands and catwalk shows focus on evergreen items and individual pieces now. I believe trends are dead. It’s really about personal style, which is great because that is what this whole project is about—finding your own style and putting your own identity on your own wardrobe.
How do you balance your love of fashion with the restrictions imposed by the Rule of Five? Is there room for spontaneity and fun?
I can get spontaneity from rental, which is great. Occasionally, I might have a spontaneous purchase, but I always regret it afterwards. I think I had one this year and one last year. The good thing about a structured approach to fashion is that you can plan, be strategic, and research a lot. If you decide to buy a white shirt, for example, you can take months finding the perfect one. The search and research process is all part of the creativity.
Your book also covers fashion’s broader impact on the environment and economy. How do you see the fashion industry evolving in the next decade in response to environmental and economic pressures?
I'm recording this on the day of the Trump re-election, so let’s see how that affects the environment, as he’s suggested that he's going to roll back a lot of legislation. In Europe, legislation is shifting responsibility for sustainable products from marketing to compliance, which is positive. The economy must accept that we live on a planet with finite resources. We’re using resources 2.7 times faster than sustainable, so we need to create a circular solution to production and consumption. Otherwise, it’s an endgame.
Rent and secondhand shopping are becoming more popular. How do you see these fitting into fashion's future?
Renting is good, though it has its carbon footprint, so it’s important to use it mindfully. Secondhand shopping is great, but no more than four items a year along with your five new ones, because there’s no evidence it’s slowing the primary market. In fact, it’s enabling it. Not buying new doesn’t mean you can fill your wardrobe with secondhand items.
Many people struggle with the idea of ‘investing’ in sustainable fashion due to the higher upfront costs. What advice would you give to those hesitant to make the switch?
Charity shops are a great option. My top tip: go to British Heart Foundation and head straight to menswear. They have an amazing relationship with Charles Tyrwhitt, so you can find brand new shirts for around £11 - really good quality which you can wear as an over-sized boyfriend shirt. Also, check out the menswear rail for oversized blazers (you can get them really cheaply). Charity shops are teaming with stuff, you just have to hunt it down and know what you are looking for. Quality is key—feel the materials. Sustainable fashion is expensive but it is about using items for a very long time. Even a ten-pound cotton t-shirt can be sustainable if you wear it for years. Buying a £100 t-shirt and only wearing it once - that is fast fashion, even though it costs a lot of money. Fast fashion isn’t about cost; it’s about how quickly you cycle through items.
Finally, what do you hope your legacy will be in the realm of sustainable fashion? How do you envision your work continuing to influence the industry and consumers?
I’m in the business of creating desire and telling stories, and if I can make a more sustainable approach to consuming fashion desirable in itself, then I will feel like I will have been doing a good job. Working in climate and sustainability, it’s easy to feel you’re not making a big difference because the job at hand is so huge. But we don’t need everyone to make huge changes—just millions making small ones. Small switches, like recycling, renting, buying less, choosing better materials, and mending, make a big impact if everyone does them. That’s the legacy I want to leave.
A massive thank you to Tiffanie for taking the time to chat to me. Make sure you check out her new book, and the now famous Rule of 5. You can also follow her on Instagram and Substack.
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